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Drum December Day 10 | How to Glue Before Clamping Drum Frame

Portia "Po" Chapman
On day 10 of Drum December, Po spreads glue on the white oak before clamping the drum frame to dry. Her assistant holds the frame firmly still at the Love Art By Po Kingston Art Studio
Drum December Day 10 – Po Glues the White Drum Frame Before Clamping the Dry-Bend

Choosing the Right Glue for Handcrafted Drum Frames | Drum December Day 10

At the Love Art by Po studio in Kingston, I believe that building a professional-grade drum frame is as much about the type of glue as it is the technique used to apply it.

Different moisture levels in wood require different chemical bonds. Whether you are working with freshly steamed “green” wood or seasoned dry wood, choosing the wrong adhesive can compromise the sound of your instrument. In today’s update, I’ll explain how to pick the right glue at your local hardware store to ensure a lifetime of pure sound.

The Challenge: Gluing Damp vs. Dry Wood

The first hurdle every drum maker faces is moisture. If you are bending steamed red oak, the wood is naturally damp.

Early in my practice as an installation artist, I treated drum frames like standard carpentry—LePage Pro Carpenter’s Glue. However, standard wood glue and damp, steamed wood do not mix. I would return to my shop table the next morning to find the joint “slimy” and uncured on the inside.

The Polyurethane Solution

To glue damp wood effectively, you need a moisture-activated adhesive like Original Gorilla Glue. This polyurethane glue uses the moisture in the wood to “activate” the bond. It bonds damp frames like a dream, but it comes with a significant trade-off: The Foam.

The Science of Sound: Why “Foaming” Glue Causes Rattle

If you want a pure, resonance-free tone, you must understand how glue affects vibration. Polyurethane glue expands into a foam, creating tiny air pockets within the joint.

Are Drum Frames Meant to Rattle?

  • The Rattle: If you enjoy a “smooth rattle” or mechanical reverberation, foaming glue is your best friend.
  • The Pure Tone: If you want a clean strike, never use foaming glue. The drum frame produces sound just as much as the rawhide. If your glue joint contains air pockets, the vibration of the drum strike can cause a “seam rattle” deep within the wood.

How to avoid the rattle:

  1. Glue the frame only when the wood is fully dry.
  2. Use a non-foaming moisture-resistant glue like Gorilla Glue Clear. (Note: “Non-foaming” glues can be slippery, making clamping a damp frame more difficult.)

Three Steps to a Rattle-Free Steamed Frame

If you are new to drum making, remember that hitting a drum with “enthusiastic force” will eventually shake loose any weak or brittle bonds. To ensure your steamed frame remains silent and solid, follow these three steps:

  1. Cooling Time: Let the wood cool until it is no longer steaming, but is still slightly damp before applying glue.
  2. Even Spread: Use a non-foaming polyurethane glue spread evenly across the entire joint.
  3. Pressure: Use 6+ C-clamps, applied two at a time on opposite sides to ensure even compression.

Innovating with Dry Wood Bending

For my premium drums, I prefer to glue the wood when it is fully dry. This produces a beautiful, rattle-free instrument. However, dry hardwood doesn’t like to bend—it behaves like a floor plank!

To solve this, I developed a proprietary dry-bending technique. The wood is pre-bent and shaped before the glue is ever applied. You can see the foundation of this technique in my previous posts: Day 5, Day 7, and Day 8.

My Go-To Choice: Titebond III

For dry, single-layer frames, I recommend Titebond III Ultimate.

  • Why? It offers a longer working time, becomes “tacky” quickly for better clamping, and is rated for both interior and exterior use.
  • The Secret: Let the wood and glue “perform their magic” for at least 24 hours before sanding or knocking the frame.

The “Drum Making Golden Rule”

Frame drums are built for life—they go from drizzling rain at a community circle to the dry heat of a bonfire. Because they are exposed to moisture, heat, and travel, your glue must be waterproof.

The Golden Rule:

No matter the purpose of the drum, ALWAYS use a high-strength, waterproof glue that produces zero (or nearly zero) bubbles.

Coming Tomorrow: Join me for Drum December Day 11, where I’ll share a deep-dive tutorial on Professional Clamping. I’ll show you the “tricks of the trade” to ensure your frame is perfectly circular and structurally sound.

See you tomorrow!

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📧 Portia@loveartbypo.ca

One response to “Drum December Day 10 | How to Glue Before Clamping Drum Frame”

  1. Drum December Day 11 – How to Clamp a Drum Frame – Love Art by Po Avatar
    Drum December Day 11 – How to Clamp a Drum Frame – Love Art by Po

    […] Welcome back to Drum December! Today, we are diving into one of the most transformative stages of the process: using my innovative dry-bending technique to compress and clamp the drum frame. This method is born from my preference for non-polyurethane glues, which we explored in our Day 10 tutorial. […]

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