Behind the Art, Kingston Artist, Portia Chapman, Studio Process

Recreating Nature’s Glow: How Kingston Artist Portia “Po” Chapman Innovated the Glow Chamberโ€™s Rawhide Vessels

As a multidisciplinary Kingston artist, Portia “Po” Chapman is widely recognized for her nature-focused storytelling art and the high-contrast paintings that adorn her artisanal frame drums. What is less known about her rawhide art, however, is a very deliberate choice she makes: Po does not paint the faces, eyes, or skin of the characters in her images. Instead, she leaves them unpainted so that the natural rawhide becomes the skin of her figures, creating inherently inclusive content. The strategy reveals itself in the lightโ€”when noonday sunlight shines through the back of a painted drum, the figures come alive, with their faces, eyes, and skin literally glowing.

Kingston artist and frame drum maker Portia Po Chapman holds up a vibrant hand-painted drum as natural sunlight illuminates the unpainted rawhide eyes and face.
Held against the sky, natural sunlight passes through the unpainted rawhide skin and eyes of the characters, bringing the high-contrast artwork alive with a golden glow.
Hand-built bison rawhide on oak frame drum held up to natural sunlight, revealing a translucent golden glow and intricate tree of life stringing pattern.
Sunlight passes through an unpainted bison rawhide drum built at Po’s Kingston studio, illuminating its natural fiber textures and tree of life lacing patternโ€”the primary inspiration for the artificial backlighting engineered in the Being Seen Glow Chamber.

It was the golden, sunlit radiance that inspired the glow for Poโ€™s immersive, interactive art installation, Being Seen: when Being Seen… we glow, hosted at the Kingston Arts Council (KAC) Pocket Gallery in Kingston, Ontarioโ€™s Tett Centre for Creativity and Learning from July 27 to September 18, 2026. To bring this installation to life, she set out to engineer a way, using artificial electrical backlighting, to simulate the natural essence of sunlit rawhide.

Interactive Glow Chamber installation featuring semi-circular partition walls mounted with circular, illuminated rawhide vessels casting a warm golden glow.
The interactive Glow Chamber from Portia “Po” Chapmanโ€™s exhibition when BEING SEEN… we glow, featuring backlit rawhide vessels radiating the natural golden warmth of sunlit rawhide.

This is the story of how Po engineered the glowing vessels of the Glow Chamber.

The Search for the Perfect Light

Because an installation of this exact existence had never been done before, Po had no existing reference points or guides to follow. She embarked on a long, experimental journey of trial and error to find a light source that could evoke the precise emotional response of feeling truly seen.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman smiling radiantly as she adjusts dimmer lighting behind backlit circular rawhide artworks inside the Glow Chamber installation.
On installation day at the KAC Pocket Gallery, Po uses dimmer switches to fine-tune the backlighting, capturing the exact sunlit radiance that evoked a visceral, womb-like sense of comfort for gallery visitors.

Her first attempts involved sampling incandescent lights. While they provided a comforting hue, the heat generated, even after drilling holes for vents, caused the enclosed rawhide to overheat, crack, ripple, and emit an unpleasant scent.  Next, she tested cool LED strip, tape, and rope lighting. While these options beautifully framed her drums (such as her bison drum, “Not a Second”), they created a spotted effect rather than the unified, radiant glow she sought.

Oval bison rawhide drum titled Not a Second mounted on a dark gallery wall, backlit by circular LED points casting a warm marquee glow along its rim.
Featured in the Being Seen exhibition, the bison rawhide drum titled Not a Second demonstrates an early lighting iteration using LED perimeter lighting, showcasing the drum’s organic texture while highlighting the search for seamless light diffusion.

She then tried LED Flat Panel Flush Mount Ceiling Lights, which produced the right glow but proved cost-prohibitive and offered limited size choices.  Finally, Po discovered an economical, budget-friendly round LED fixture equipped with a colour temperature adjustment switch (allowing selection between soft white, bright white, and daylight) paired with an opaque plastic diffusing shade. This combination yielded the soft, manageable, even glow she needed.

Top-down view of a circular LED light fixture with an opaque plastic diffuser shade glowing softly, wired with quick-connect terminals during a studio test by Portia Po Chapman.
Studio trial of a color-temperature-adjustable LED light featuring a plastic diffusing shade, providing the smooth light dispersion required to safely illuminate rawhide vessels from within.

Selecting and Soaking the Hides

With her light source established, Po turned her attention to selecting the rawhide. Working in her studio, she unrolled various deer, elk, and bison hides to choose pieces for 8, 10, and 12-inch light diffusers. Because rawhide ranges from opaque to nearly transparent, and spans shades from silver to cream, gold, and deep amber, she meticulously curated hides with unique scars, holes, and mottled textures to achieve her desired ambient, glowing story.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman smiling as she unrolls large sheets of rawhide on a wooden table, preparing to cut pieces for her Being Seen Glow Chamber installation.
Rolling out the rawhides (deer, elk, and bison) at Po’s Kingston art studio to select pieces based on their specific colors, textures, and translucency, determining the unique glow each vessel will produce in the Being Seen installation.

After rough-cutting the hide into rounds, Po submerged them two at a time in a dedicated galvanized washtub filled with tap water. The soak times varied significantly by hide type: deer rawhide soaked for 12 hours, elk rawhide soaked for 24 hours, and bison rawhide soaked for 48 hours. To keep the naturally buoyant hides fully submerged, she initially weighted them down with river rocks. Halfway through the soak, she removed the rocks and flipped the hides; once fully hydrated, the rawhide suspended naturally in the water bath like fish staying still in a clear pond.

Top-down view of rawhide circles submerged in water inside a vintage galvanized washtub, held down by river rocks during a studio soaking process by Portia Po Chapman
Inside her Kingston studio, Po submerses rough-cut rawhide rounds two at a time in a dedicated galvanized washtub, using river rocks to keep the buoyant hides submerged as they hydrate and soften.

The process differed from Poโ€™s method of soaking rawhide drum skins which are soaked in rain water, weighted by natural crystals, and soaked one at a time for individually specific times.

Giving in to the Rawhide: A Technical Breakthrough

Wrapping wet, pliable rawhide over plastic diffusers proved vastly different from stringing traditional oak or maple frame drums. Rawhide exerts immense force as it dries and shrinks. Poโ€™s early trials failed because pulling the hide tightly with standard drum-lacing techniques warped and buckled the plastic diffusers, preventing them from mounting back onto their LED base units.  Po realized that to succeed, she had to stop strong-arming the material and instead give in to the nature of rawhide, allowing its natural, organic shape to form.  She pioneered an entirely new process that included:

1/ Precision Drilling: She determined a precise location, hole pattern and frequency to drill directly into the plastic diffusers, matching them with holes punched around the hide using a leather punch.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman drilling a hole pattern into a white plastic LED light diffuser, supported by a black sponge kneeling pad, in her studio as she prepares the backing for rawhide wrapping.
To successfully wrap the backlighting diffusers with rawhide for the Being Seen installation, Po pioneered a custom hole pattern through the plastic, allowing the shrinking hide and sinew to glide without warping the structure, a breakthrough achieved after initial failures.


2/ Cake Fondant-Style Draping:ย She calculated her cut hide diameter using a dedicated formulaโ€”the diffuser diameter plus twice its depth, plus approximately two inches. Instead of stretching the hide tight, she draped it loosely over the diffuser like fondant icing over a cake.


3/ Backstitch Lacing: Using synthetic sinew and a darning needle, she applied a loose, backstitch stitch pattern, that allowed the rawhide to gently shift as it shrank to fit the diffuser.

Top-down view of Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman in her studio, wearing headphones and eyeglasses, using synthetic sinew and a backstitch pattern to lace water-soaked rawhide over a pre-drilled plastic LED diffuser frame. An excessive margin of rawhide forms a ruffle, which Po intends to finger-mold and progressively trim to create a hide skirt.
Moving beyond traditional frame drum measurements and tension, Po innovates by employing an innovative backstitch lacing technique on soaked rawhide, draped loosely like fondant over a custom-drilled plastic LED diffuser. This technique allows a natural ruffle to form, which she meticulously molds and trims into a hide skirt to perfectly obscure the fixture hardware.


This technique allowed a natural, flowing ruffle to form, rather than measured exact pleating that she creates for her frame dums. The excessive hide created a skirt that covered the metal mounting hardware. 

Assembly, Engineering, and Testing

Once laced, the vessels were transferred to a wire drying rack in Po’s woodshop. Because the hide rested against a solid plastic diffuser, the drying process took longer than standard open-backed frame drums. During this drying window, Po actively hand-sculpted and finger-molded the curves and flow of the rawhide ruffles, progressively trimming them as they set.

Top-down view of Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman in her woodshop, wearing glasses and a pink t-shirt, carefully placing an illuminated rawhide vessel onto a wire drying rack. Several other partially dried rawhide vessels are already sitting on the rack
In her Kingston woodshop, Po manages the crucial drying phase for the Being Seen installation. She meticulously positions each newly wrapped diffuser vessel on a wire rack, using this precise time window as the hide tightens to sculpt and manipulate the organic curve and flow of the rawhide ruffles.

To prepare the fixtures for gallery mounting, Po converted the hardwired LED ceiling lights into plug-in lamp units using transparent Wago Lever-Nut connectors. This allowed all the monolith-mounted vessels to plug directly into a central power bar controlled by a single master dimmer switch that the gallery staff could use with ease.

Top-down view of Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman holding orange Wago Lever-Nut connectors in her left hand as she connects a lamp cord to a smooth rawhide-wrapped LED vessel sitting on a wooden studio table surrounded by tools.
Converting ceiling lights into plug-in gallery fixtures, Po uses transparent Wago Lever-Nut connectors to safely join the LED wiring to plug-in lamp cords, enabling the entire monolith display to be powered by a single master power switch.

Before mounting, Po tested each vessel against panels of stone-hybrid sheeting (used to cover the MDF installation monoliths). Seeing the warm light shine through verified that she had successfully recreated the golden, sunlit warmth of a rawhide drum.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman smiling in a dimly lit studio as she holds an illuminated, circular rawhide vessel glowing with a warm golden sunlit light against a panel of stone-hybrid sheeting.
Achieving the ultimate vision: Po holds a finished glowing rawhide vessel up against the stone-hybrid monolith sheeting in her studio, verifying that the backlighting captures the exact golden warmth of noonday sunlight shining through rawhide.

Community Impact and Celestial Alignment

When the Glow Chamber was assembled and lit on installation day, adjusting the dimmer switch immediately brought the desired sunlit warmth into the space. Just three days after the exhibition opened on July 28, nature provided a striking confirmation: on July 31, 2026, a bright full moon rose in the midnight sky, glowing with the exact golden warmth Po had engineered in her studio.

Photograph of a warm golden full moon shining brightly in a night sky, echoing the organic textures and backlighting of rawhide artwork by Portia Po Chapman.
On July 31, 2026โ€”just three days after Being Seen openedโ€”the midnight moon offered natural confirmation, glowing with the exact warmth and organic variance of Po’s sunlit and engineered rawhide creations.

Gallery visitors responded with deep emotion, often describing the Glow Chamber as a comforting, “womb-like” space. As part of the interactive exhibition, 70 guests snapped selfie portraits inside the Glow Chamber and posted them onto an interactive gallery board alongside handwritten reflections of their experience.

A dark gallery wall displaying a gold-framed interactive photo board titled "when BEING SEEN... we glow" covered in visitor selfie photos and handwritten notes, alongside custom wall text explaining three empowering drum hide stories by Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman.
The heart of the community connection: 70 exhibition visitors posted their glowing selfie portraits and personal reflections on the interactive board inside the Kingston Arts Council Pocket Gallery during Portia “Po” Chapman’s Being Seen exhibition (July 27 โ€“ September 18, 2026).

By capturing the feeling of noonday sunlight through rawhide, Portia “Po” Chapman created a space where visitors could joyously glow togetherโ€”proving her core thesis: โ€œEveryone glows when they feel seen.โ€

Close-up portrait of Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman in a pink top with her hair braided, illuminated by the warm golden light emitted from a handcrafted rawhide vessel she holds in the dark Pocket Gallery space
Celebrating the realized vision: Po poses in the Kingston Arts Council Pocket Gallery alongside one of her completed backlit rawhide vessels, illuminated by the warm golden glow achieved through months of dedicated experimentation and innovation. Photo by Ann Decker.

Hosted by the Kingston Arts Council at the Tett Centre for Creativity and Learning, Being Seen: when Being Seen… we glow, marked both a community success and a major advancement in Poโ€™s ongoing evolution of rawhide art.

Immersive site-specific installation "Being Seen: when Being Seen... we glow" featuring the monochromatic Glow Chamber, glowing rawhide vessels, vinyl wall text, and photo board inside the Kingston Arts Council Pocket Gallery.
The site-specific Glow Chamber on view inside the Kingston Arts Council Pocket Gallery during the immersive exhibition, “Being Seen: when Being Seen… we glow.”

Portia “Po” Chapman is a Kingston-based multidisciplinary visual artist, muralist, and certified educator (BFAH, B.Ed, OCT) recognized for her site-specific Storytelling Art and signature high-contrast aesthetic. Blending traditional craftโ€”such as artisanal rawhide sculpting and woodworkingโ€”with innovative lighting design and digital tools, she creates immersive, community-driven installations that invite viewers into a shared, radiant dialogue where everyone glows. Discover more of her portfolio, public artworks, and upcoming projects at loveartbypo.ca.

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Serving Kingston, Ontario & Across Canada


Contact Po Using Form Below

โ† Back

Contact Email Confirmation

Hi, Po here! Thanks for sending me an email. I will get back to you within a few days. Have a beautiful day!

Kingston Artist, Portia Chapman, Studio Process

The Unbroken Thread: How Integrated Print Media Expanded the Being Seen Installation Beyond Gallery Walls | Kingston Artist Portia Po Chapman

An art installation rarely begins at the gallery threshold; at its most potent, it breathes long before a viewer steps into the room. For Kingston visual artist Portia Po Chapman, the print media for her solo exhibition, Being Seen: when Being Seenโ€ฆ we glow, was never conceived as standard promotional marketing. Instead, it operated as a contemporary, active material of the installation itselfโ€”a physical and emotional bridge connecting the vibrant summer streets of downtown Kingston to the intimate interior of the KAC Pocket Gallery at the Tett Centre for Creativity and Learning.

Promotional poster for Being Seen exhibition by Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman featuring a glowing rawhide drum and event details for the KAC Pocket Gallery at the Tett Centre.
The official print media poster distributed throughout downtown Kingston, bridging the community to Portia “Po” Chapman’s interactive exhibition at the Tett Centre for Creativity and Learning

By treating posters, rack cards, business cards and signage not as mere invitations, but as the opening movement of a shared pilgrimage, Chapman established a living framework where the artwork began on the sidewalks.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman standing as the letter I in the large white Kingston waterfront sign while holding a Being Seen exhibition poster in front of the historic steam engine.
Portia “Po” Chapman standing in as the letter “I” in the iconic Kingston waterfront sign, holding a Being Seen poster to conclude her community promotional walk.

The foundational visual identity, anchored by an unedited night photograph of illuminated rawhide taken outside her studio,

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman holding a glowing illuminated rawhide frame drum at night outside a brick studio wall, radiating a warm golden light across her face and red shirt.
The original night photograph outside the Portia “Po” Chapman’s Kingston art studio that inspired the entire visual identity, warm glow, and colour palette for “Being Seen: when Being Seen… we glow.”

infused every piece of print collateral with the exact warm, golden glow and high-contrast black backdrop of the central Glow Chamber, inviting passersby to seek out that same feeling of mutual admiration and visibility.

Vertical exhibition rack card for Being Seen by Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman featuring event details, exhibition copy, and the artist holding an illuminated rawhide drum.
The official takeaway rack card placed throughout the Tett Centre and Isabel Bader Centre, guiding visitors toward the KAC Pocket Gallery and serving as a keepsake souvenir for attendees.

This contemporary philosophy transformed marketing into a tactile trail of breadcrumbs. As visitors moved from local downtown shops, past the Isabel Bader Centre for the Performing Arts, and through the Tett Centreโ€™s stone corridors, the density of print collateral steadily increasedโ€”building a palpable sense of arrival and anticipation with every step.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman standing outside the Tett Centre wearing a custom Being Seen shirt beside a directional opening reception sign pointing to the Pocket Gallery.
Portia “Po” Chapman standing outside the Tett Centre for Creativity & Learning beside her custom directional sign, wearing branded apparel to welcome guests to the Being Seen opening reception.

Whether encountering street-level posters, directional foyer signs, or table tent cards at the opening reception, gallery-goers were drawn along a continuous narrative path.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman presenting a rawhide drum during a private art talk at the Kingston Arts Council office with a promotional tent card featured on the foreground coffee table.
Portia “Po” Chapman delivering a private art talk to visiting guests in the Kingston Arts Council office, with a branded Being Seen tent card sitting in the foreground to reinforce the exhibition theme.

On the streets, Chapman embodied the art itself, donning custom branded apparel and a playful tinsel hat to spark joyful, face-to-face conversations that turned ordinary community interactions into the first note of the exhibition experience.

Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman wearing a pink tinsel hat and custom exhibition t-shirt while holding a Being Seen poster on a downtown Kingston street.
Portia “Po” Chapman sharing print materials on the streets of downtown Kingston, using vibrant personal engagement to spark joyful conversations and guide community members to the Being Seen exhibition.

Even inside the dark gallery space, takeaway rack cards and business cards were tucked strategically beneath an illuminated bison rawhide drum like hidden treasures, ensuring that the print materials harmonized with the dark walls while serving as lasting souvenirs of the quest.

Dark gallery wall featuring a glowing bison rawhide drum mounted above a small shelf holding promotional business cards and rack cards beside an interactive selfie photo board.
Strategic placement of promotional cards on a shelf below the illuminated bison rawhide drum inside the KAC Pocket Gallery, using light to guide visitors to takeaway media without disrupting the dark gallery aesthetic.

The transformative effect of this holistic approach was immediate. While initial gallery attendance began as a quiet trickle, the strategic deployment of the unified print media ignited a wave of community engagement, drawing visitors back for a richer, more heightened experience.

Custom black and gold directional sign in the Tett Centre foyer for Being Seen opening reception by Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman pointing toward the KAC Pocket Gallery.
Directional print signage placed in the main foyer of the Tett Centre for Creativity & Learning, continuing the visual breadcrumb trail toward the KAC Pocket Gallery for Portia “Po” Chapman’s opening reception.

Viewers did not simply observe a static sculpture; they embarked on a guided journey that validated their presence and invited them directly into the warm interior of the Glow Chamber.

Interactive Glow Chamber installation featuring semi-circular partition walls mounted with circular, illuminated rawhide vessels casting a warm golden glow.
The interactive Glow Chamber from Portia “Po” Chapmanโ€™s exhibition when BEING SEEN… we glow, featuring backlit rawhide vessels radiating the natural golden warmth of sunlit rawhide.

By seamlessly weaving print media, personal presence, and spatial layout into a single cohesive ecosystem, Portia Po Chapman proved that a poster can transcend advertising to become the threshold of the art itselfโ€”bridging the gap between fine art and the local community, and extending the golden feeling of Being Seen far beyond the gallery walls.

The completed black exhibition title wall for "when Being Seen... we glow" by Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman, featuring gold vinyl lettering, a full deer rawhide mounted 1.5 inches off the wall with copper pipe spacers, an artist statement, and an egg-shaped illuminated silver deer rawhide drum.
The completed interior title wall for “Being Seen: when Being Seen… we glow” by artist in Kingston Portia Po Chapman, showcasing a floating full deer rawhide, an illuminated silver deer rawhide drum, and custom Didactic Museography typography.
Custom exhibition business card for Kingston artist Portia Po Chapman featuring artist contact details, website link, and the glowing rawhide drum artwork theme.
Custom promotional business card designed by Kingston artist Portia “Po” Chapman to facilitate direct community connections and invite gallery visitors into the Being Seen exhibition experience.

Portia Po Chapman is a Kingston-based visual artist, muralist, and educator (BFAH, B.Ed, OCT) recognized for her signature high-contrast aesthetic and site-specific installations. Combining natural materials like hand-sculpted rawhide with modern digital tools and integrated print media, she crafts immersive, community-driven experiences where every elementโ€”from the street to the galleryโ€”invites viewers into active dialogue with the work. Discover more of her portfolio, public artworks, and upcoming exhibitions at loveartbypo.ca

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Serving Kingston, Ontario & Across Canada


Contact Po Using Form Below

โ† Back

Contact Email Confirmation

Hi, Po here! Thanks for sending me an email. I will get back to you within a few days. Have a beautiful day!

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Indigenous Art, Kingston Artist, Portia Chapman, Studio Process, Uncategorized

Drum December Day 21: Drumming in the New Year 2026

A smiling Portia Po Chapman in a blue shirt standing in front of a decorated Christmas tree. The image includes white text that reads "Day 21 Happy New Year 2026.
A New Year’s Eve Celebration: Wrapping up 21 days of Drum December with a heart full of gratitude and a resonant new drum for 2026.

We did it. Let’s drum in the New Year!

Look how beautiful the Drum December drum turned out. This where we started with Drum December. You can learn exactly how we crafted this instrument by visiting the previous 20 days of the series. The golden translucent rawhide is like golden stained glass when it is backlit, a testament to the patient curing process and the beauty of the deer rawhide.

A Final Note on the Journey

As the final resonance of this drum rings out, I am struck by the power of community. What began as a kiln dried, white oak board and a dream of a New Yearโ€™s heartbeat has transformed into a sacred instrument, witnessed by thousands across the globe. Thank you for walking this 21-day path with meโ€”from the first steam-bent curve to this final, triumphant pulse. May this drumโ€™s voice carry our collective intentions for peace, healing, and creative connection into 2026.

The rhythm continues.

Read more about my art and contact information at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.


To contact me directly, please use this email:

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

3 responses to “Drum December Day 21: Drumming in the New Year 2026”

  1.  Avatar
    Anonymous

    Happy New Year Portia you did it and the drum is beautiful.

    1. Portia "Po" Chapman Avatar

      Happy New Year to you too. I wasn’t sure if the drum would be ready to drum, but it all worked out great!

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Indigenous Art, Kingston Artist, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Real-Time Crafting, Studio Process, Uncategorized

Drum December Day 19 – Preparing to Stretch the Deer Rawhide

A close-up of Kingston artist Portia Po Chapmanโ€™s hands pressing down on a brown towel that is covering soaked rawhide to remove excess moisture. Bold white text in the center reads "Day 19 Preparing to Stretch Rawhide."
Removing the excess: Preparing the soaked deer rawhide for stringing and stretching on Day 20 of Drum December.

The Art of the Template

Preparation is the silent partner of success. Before we lift the rawhide from its sacred soak, we must ensure every measurement is exact. Thin rawhide, like the deer skin we are using for our White Oak frame, can dry out remarkably fast. If the hide becomes too dry during the stringing process, you risk the sinew ripping right through the skinโ€”a setback we avoid by being “safe rather than sorry.”

Engineering the Perfect Fit

To protect the hide and ensure the beautiful wood of the frame remains visible, I begin by creating a precise template.

The Measurement: I cut a paper guide measuring roughly 1.5″ in length. This ensures the rawhide wraps perfectly, leaving about 0.75″ of space between the stringing holes and the edge.

Digital Precision: After sketching the rough pattern, I move into the digital space. I photograph the pattern and use Photoshop to precisely space the stringing holes.

The Cut: Using my Cricut Maker, I turn that digital file into a physical pattern. This machine truly makes light work of creating an accurate, repeatable guide.

Retrieving and “Swaddling” the Hide

Lifting the rawhide from its bath is a delicate, two-person job. As I hold up a fresh towel, my assistant carefully removes the quartz and geode anchors.

The hide is gently pulled from the water and placed into the towel. The process of wiping it dry feels remarkably like drying a baby after a bathโ€”it requires a gentle, caring touch to move the moisture away while keeping the hide supple.

Once “swaddled,” I move it to a festive workspace and lay it upon a fresh, dry towel to keep it from slipping.

Tracing and Punching: The Final Prep

With the template held firmly against the damp rawhide, I trace the perimeter and every single stringing hole with a pencil.

Steady Hands: It is vital that the template does not shift during this process; a slip here could be disastrous for the drum’s final tension.

The Cut: I move gently but swiftly with tin-snip scissors, following the traced line to trim the hide to its final shape.

The Holes: Using a leather hole puncher set to a medium size (approximately 2.5 mm), I punch out the marks for the sinew.

Real-Time Update: On Schedule for the New Year

As of 10:00 PM on December 27, 2025, I am thrilled to report that we are officially on schedule! To have this drum ready for New Yearโ€™s Eve, it had to be strung by midnight on the 27th to allow for a full three days of drying in a 50% humidity-controlled environment. We hit the deadline! The heartbeat of the New Year is officially within our reach.

Join us tomorrow for Drum December Day 20, where we move into the powerful work of stretching and stringing. The drum is almost ready to find its voice.

Read more about my art and contact information at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.


To contact me directly, please use this email:

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

One response to “Drum December Day 19 – Preparing to Stretch the Deer Rawhide”

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Indigenous Art, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Real-Time Crafting, Studio Process, Uncategorized

Drum December Day 17 – How To Varnish a Drum Frame

Close-up of a white oak drum frame stained in Black Cherry, resting on wooden risers for the varnishing stage of Drum December Day 17 at Portia Po Chapmanโ€™s studio.
Moving from the deep stain of Day 16 to the protective glow of Day 17: Preparing to varnish the white oak drum frame.

Making the Drum Frame Shine

Varnishing is rarely a single-day task; it is a meticulous 2โ€“3 day process that requires patience, a steady hand, and a keen ear for the woodโ€™s texture. While the varnish gets harder the longer it driesโ€”which is our ultimate goal for a durable instrumentโ€”this hardness can make it difficult for the next layer to bond. To ensure a professional, glass-like finish, we must navigate the delicate balance of drying times and sanding.

Choosing the Right Finish: Water-Based vs. Spar Varnish

For drums intended for rugged, outdoor drum circles, I typically use a natural spar varnish. It applies thickly and offers heavy-duty protection, though it requires significant drying time.

However, for this white oak frame, I chose a clear, non-yellowing water-based Varathane finish.

  • The Benefit: It dries much faster than oil-based alternatives.
  • The Challenge: The coats are much thinner, meaning the wood grain often “raises” after the first application.

In the video below, you can actually hear the raised grain as I sweep my hand across the dry surface. This texture must be smoothed before we can move forward.

The Secret to Sanding First Coats

Sanding the first coat of dry varnish is easier than it looks, provided you have the right technique. Because I am on a strict timelineโ€”with the goal of stringing this drum on Day 19 (December 27, 2025)โ€”I chose to sand after just one coat.

Pro Tip for Sanding:

  1. Wet the surface: Lubricating the varnish prevents the sandpaper from “grabbing” too aggressively.
  2. The Paper: Use 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper.
  3. The Motion: Lightly draw the paper along the surface, always following the direction of the grain.

Note: If you are using a very thin acrylic “varnish,” it is often safer to wait until the 3rd coat to sand.

Once sanded, the frame must be wiped down and dried. Always use a tack cloth as your final step to remove every microscopic speck of dust before the next coat of varnish touches the wood.

Controlling the Environment

Timing is everything. I applied the first coat roughly eight hours ago, but the humidity outside was climbing. To ensure the frame dried in time for the second coat, I moved it into my humidity-controlled drum painting studio, which I keep strictly between 45% and 50% humidity. This controlled environment is essential for a consistent cure.

Efficiency on the Turntable: The Game Changer

The way you physically handle the drum during varnishing dictates the final look. I prefer to use a lazy-susan (turntable) painting surface equipped with risen bars.

Why use a turntable?

  • Continuous Motion: It allows for long, fluid brush strokes that follow the grain without the artist having to change positions.
  • Self-Leveling: Fewer brush strokes mean the varnish has a better chance to self-level, resulting in a smoother finish.
  • Drip Management: If excess varnish begins to pool at the bottom edge, you can easily catch and wipe it with just the tips of your bristles as the frame spins.

Using a turntable was a complete game changer for my craft, and it is the secret behind the flawless finish on this white oak frame.

Come back tomorrow when we cut the rawhide and put in the water to soak.

See you on Day 18!

Read more about my art and contact information at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.
To contact me directly, please use this email:

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

One response to “Drum December Day 17 – How To Varnish a Drum Frame”

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Indigenous Art, Kingston Artist, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Real-Time Crafting, Studio Process

Drum December Day 15 – Sanding Smooth the Drum Frame

Close-up of Portia Po Chapmanโ€™s hands guiding a white oak drum frame on an oscillating drum sander for Day 15 of Drum December.
The final sanding stages begin in the woodshop for Day 15.

Levelling the Joint: Precision Sanding in the Winter Workshop

Welcome back to the workshop! Today is all about the “Great Sanding.” The dust is flying as we move into the first and most critical stage of finishing: leveling that joint.

In todayโ€™s video, Iโ€™m at the drum sander, pink shop apron on, getting to work on the white oak frame. Youโ€™ll see me focusing on the seam where the wood overlaps.

“We are sanding the sharp edges off of the seam. We are using a RIDGIDย Oscillating Edge/Belt Spindle Sander so that the seam is really nice and even. Some of my competitors leave this inside edge. But you wonโ€™t find that here at Love Art By Po.”

The “Po” Difference

For me, the inside of the drum is just as important as the outside. By using the drum sander to level those sharp edges, I ensure the frame feels like one continuous, seamless piece of wood. Itโ€™s a small detail, but itโ€™s what makes a Love Art By Po drum a professional piece of art.

The Holiday Schedule

We are moving fast to hit our December 27th stringing deadline! Here is what the next few days look like:

  • Day 16 (Tomorrow, Dec 24): Iโ€™ll be finishing the hand-sanding and moving straight into the custom staining process.
  • Christmas Day (Dec 25): The studio will be closed. Iโ€™ll be taking the day to celebrate with family while the first layers of our work cure.
  • Day 17 (Boxing Day, Dec 26): We hit the ground running with the first coats of varnish in the painting studio.

Come back tomorrow for Day 16 to see these frames finally get their colour!

See You Tomorrow for Day 16

Read more about my art and contact information at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.
To contact me directly, please use this email:

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

2 responses to “Drum December Day 15 – Sanding Smooth the Drum Frame”

  1. Drum December Day 16 – How to Stain a Drum Frame – Love Art by Po Avatar

    […] our Day 15 video, we tackled the critical task of erasing the overlap seam. Using a portable spindle sander, I […]

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Find Love Art by Po’s Portia “Po” Chapman Kingston Art studio on Google Maps at this link.

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Indigenous Art, Kingston Artist, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Portia Po Chapman Frames and Stretchers, Real-Time Crafting, Studio Process, Uncategorized

Drum December Day 13 – Beyond the Clamps: Wrapping the Summer Bend for a Winter Reveal

Close-up of a wood drum frame with blue C-clamps attached, sitting on grass, from the "Drum December Day 13 Summer Bend Ready For Winter Reveal" blog post by Portia Po Chapman.
Clamped wood drum frames from the summer bending sessions, ready to be finished in the winter studio.

Beyond the Clamps: Wrapping the Summer Bend for a Winter Reveal

We have reached Day 13 of Drum December. Using my innovative dry-bend technique and the disciplined 6-clamp method for freehand organic formation, the drum frames are now set. They have been glued and secured into their unique shapes and sizesโ€”now, we must give them the gift of time.

The Art of the Cure

In the heat of the summer, I prefer to hang the clamped frames in the maple tree at the Love Art By Po studio. Iโ€™ve found that the blazing summer sun and a hot woodshop can be too aggressive; the glue and wood need to work their magic at their own pace. This stage cannot be rushed.

Whether they are hanging in the cool shade of a tree or resting in my humidity-controlled studio, the environment must be just right. To ensure the wood “remembers” its new shape without stress, I maintain these optimal conditions:

  • Temperature Range: 18โ€“27ยฐC (65โ€“80ยฐF)
  • Humidity: 55%
  • Lighting: Reduced UV exposure with dappled, indirect sunlight

More Than Craft: The Living Drum

Once dry, the frames move into my controlled environment for about 30 days. But this isn’t just storageโ€”it is an introduction. I bring them into a living space filled with family conversation, singing, and music. I introduce them to their “sister drums” by playing the finished drums that surround them.

Some might think of drum making as simple carpentry, like crafting a coffee table, but the wood tells a different story. If you do not acknowledge their living nature, they rebel. For years, I heard stories of drums as family members who “talk” in their own ways. I never truly comprehended how that was possible until I began making them myself. Now, I know the truth: Drum making, most assuredly, becomes LIFE.

The Pivot: Moving to Real-Time

Today is December 21, 2025. Our summer-bent frames have dried, been unclamped, and are fully conditioned to the spirit of my studio. Starting tomorrow, Day 14, we leave the archives behind and move into real-time.

We are officially on a countdown to New Yearโ€™s Eve. To drum in 2026 with a newly finished piece, I must have the rawhide strung by December 27. Rawhide requires three days to dry in perfect conditions, and with the shifting winter weather outside my stringing studio, this will be a true nail-biter.

Nature will do as Nature does, and the drum is a part of that natural world. Join me tomorrow for Day 14 as we step into the workshop to begin the sanding and finishing.

See you in the studio!

See you tomorrow for Day 14!

Read more about my art at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.

To contact me directly, please use this email:

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

One response to “Drum December Day 13 – Beyond the Clamps: Wrapping the Summer Bend for a Winter Reveal”

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Find Love Art by Po’s Portia “Po” Chapman Kingston Art studio on Google Maps at this link.

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Kingston Artist, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Portia Po Chapman Frames and Stretchers, Studio Process, Uncategorized, woodworking

Drum December Day 12 – How to Make a Drum Frame Using 6 Clamps

Close-up of several blue C-clamps tightly securing a glued joint on a wooden drum frame using the 6-clamp method, Day 12 tutorial by Portia Po Chapman.
Mastering the “6 Clamp Method” to ensure a secure, even bond on the dry-bent drum frame.

Drum December Day 12: Mastering the 6-Clamp Method

Welcome to Day 12 of Drum December! Today is the day we tackle dry-bending and clamping head-on. In this tutorial, youโ€™ll learn the vital “what-to-dos” (and the painful “what-not-to-dos”) of securing your frame.

Clamping hardwood is a bit like attending your grandmotherโ€™s third wedding and being asked to dance by a gentleman who took lessons from Chubby Checker. Just like a dancer from the ’60s, the wood keeps trying to “Twist.” By following my innovative 6-Clamp Method, youโ€™ll have no problem taking the lead in this clamping dance.


The Anatomy of the Dance: Twist and Circularity

When making drum frames, there are two primary style considerations you must face:

  1. The Twist: How much natural “sport” or torsion your finished frame will carry.
  2. The Shape: How perfectly circular or organic you want your finished drum to be.

Both of these decisions are finalized during the clamping stage. This is exactly why I developed the 6-Clamp Methodโ€”to give the maker total control over the woodโ€™s final expression.

Avoiding the Tangled Clamp: The Staggering Method

In Day 11, I explained how the shape changes depending on which end overlaps on the outside. Today, we focus on the direction of the clamps.

Because you are using six heavy-duty C-clamps in very close proximity, the handles can easily get stuck against each other. It can be a deeply frustrating process! Below is a video of my own experience trying to turn clamp handles that weren’t staggered. If you find it painful to watch, just imagine being the one trying to turn them under pressure!

To solve this, we stagger the clampsโ€”top and bottomโ€”in a disciplined sequence. This allows us to intricately pull the seam together while “reading” the bend and twist of the frame.

The 6-Clamp Sequence: A Step-by-Step Guide

I have created this incremental schematic to show you the exact order of operations. Note how each clamp is placed to manage the tension of the 3″ to 5″ glued seam:

  1. Clamp #1: Placed on the top, dead-center of the seam.
  2. Clamp #2: Placed directly beneath the first, but facing the opposite direction.
  3. Clamps #3 & #4: Placed on the side of the center clamps closest to the inner board end.
  4. Clamps #5 & #6: Placed on the remaining opposite side.

Shaping with Baffles: Controlling the Curve

In the schematic video above, I omitted the cutoff baffles (the hardwood blocks that protect your frame) for clarity. However, you must use them!

The size of the baffle on the inside of the frame actually alters the drum’s final shape.

  • The Standard: I typically use a 1″ x 3″ piece of oak.
  • The Adjustment: If you want to flatten a side or create an egg-shaped drum, you do this by widening the inner baffle. The wider the baffle, the flatter that section of the frame becomes.
  • The Rule of Thumb: I generally use a 1″ wide piece on the inside and a 2″ wide piece on the outside, adjusting the spacing as I feel the wood react.

The Goldilocks Grip: Just Enough Pressure

By alternating your clamps, you aren’t just preventing a handle jamโ€”you are managing the twist. When the first clamp goes on, you can adjust the shift and slide of the frame. The second clamp adds stability, and clamps three through six do the heavy lifting.

Tighten them as firmly as your hand can turnโ€”no need for tools. You are looking for the glue to “squeeze out” evenly along the seam. Be careful not to over-tighten! If you squeeze out too much glue, youโ€™ll create a “starved” joint. This results in a fragile frame that may snap when the powerful tension of the rawhide eventually pulls it into its final form.

Looking Ahead

If you think a tree has a long memory, just wait until you see the nature of rawhide. Keep following the Drum December series to see how we work with animal skins in the coming days.

Even if you never pick up a clamp yourself, I hope youโ€™ve learned how to straighten out “The Twist.” Just start in the middle of the floor and lead your partnerโ€”side-stepping and swaying until the song is done and you both become one with the true drumbeat of life.

See you tomorrow for Day 13!

Read more about my art at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

One response to “Drum December Day 12 – How to Make a Drum Frame Using 6 Clamps”

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Find Love Art by Po’s Portia “Po” Chapman Kingston Art studio on Google Maps at this link.

Behind the Art, Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Kingston Artist, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Studio Process, Sustainable Craft, Uncategorized, woodworking

Drum December Day 11 – How to Clamp a Drum Frame

Portia Po Chapman and an assistant carefully applying a blue metal clamp to a glued drum frame in a sunlit Kingston art studio.
Day 11: Applying high-pressure clamps to the glued frame is the final step to ensuring a rattle-free, resonant instrument.

Drum December Day 11: Mastering the Compression and Clamping of Your Drum Frame

Welcome back to Drum December! Today, we are diving into one of the most transformative stages of the process: using my innovative dry-bending technique to compress and clamp the drum frame. This method is born from my preference for non-polyurethane glues, which we explored in our Day 10 tutorial.

By utilizing sun-steamed wood that has been “trained” during the pre-bending phase, we gain incredible creative flexibility when it comes time for the final clamp. If you missed the early stages of this journey, you can catch up on Day 5 and Drum December Begins to see how we prepare the wood to be shaped.


The “impossible” C-Shape

After trimming the frame on Day 9, you are left with a piece of wood that has a massive 16-inch gap between the ends. It looks like a giant letter “C,” and honestly, it looks impossible to close. But this is where the magic happens.

Choosing Your Bending Method

There are two primary ways to bring those ends together:

  1. Mechanical Bending: Using a dedicated jig or form to force the wood into a circle.
  2. Freehand Bending: Bending the wood by hand and clamping the ends using only hardwood cutoffs as buffers.

I personally prefer the freehand dry-bending method. My clients love it because it results in a more organic, natural shape and a superior sound.

The Critical Decision: Inside or Outside?

Before you apply a single clamp, you must decide which end of the wood will overlap on the outside. This might seem minor, but it is vital:

  • The choice of which end goes on the outside literally alters the final shape and resonance of the drum.
  • The inner end experiences a much tighter curve than the outer end.
  • Even with identical ends, swapping the overlap order can create a completely different hoop shape.

The Miracle of Elasticity

The most remarkable part of this technique is the elastic response of the hardwood. Because of the sun-steaming and pre-bending, the wood becomes incredibly flexible. In my demonstrations, you can see a cherry wood frame compressed over 16 inches with ease.

I view myself as a facilitator for the tree. When you encourage the wood to bend naturally, it “sings”. If you force it, the wood rebels, cracks, and the sound becomes muted. A drum makerโ€™s job is to unlock that voice, not silence it.

Letting the Tree Sing: The Philosophy of the Bend

It is truly a remarkable thing to witness, and I often wonder why this method isn’t the gold standard. When we dry-bend, the results are simply superior to clamping freshly steamed woodโ€”especially when crafting those challenging, small-radius frames.

Using this technique feels less like “construction” and more like an act of listening. In the forest, trees are designed to dance; their limbs are built to bend when the wind caresses them. In my workshop, I see myself as a facilitator of that natural expression.

When you allow the wood to bend on its own terms, it sings. When you force it, the wood rebels; it cracks, it groans, and its spirit becomes muted. As a drum maker, my calling is to encourage the drum to find its voice, not to silence it through force.

The “Vet Visit”: Understanding Woodโ€™s Resistance

Once the wood has agreed to take its shape and the decisions of Day 10 are behind us, we move into the physical intensity of the clamping stage.

Even a willing tree has its limits. Wood has a memory and a will of its own, and it behaves much like a dog on the way to the veterinarian. The pup is perfectly calm in the car until you turn that final cornerโ€”the moment she realizes whatโ€™s happening, she “flips out.”

The drum frame does the same. It will rest quietly in your hands until the moment you bring the glue bottle near. It is the strangest, most miraculous sensation: you can feel the frame shift from a gentle yield to a spirited push-back against the compression. To navigate this, you need a sturdy vice and quick clamps within arm’s reachโ€”or a very strong, steady assistant to help you hold the tension.

The Trick of the Trade: Precision and Protection

Because the wood is alive and moving, using C-clamps is a high-stakes, time-sensitive dance. The second the clamp touches the wood, everything wants to slide and shift. I used to panic during this stage, but I eventually learned the secret: The One-Inch Rule.

  • Keep it Tight: Ensure your C-clamp is open less than an inch. This allows you to turn the handle and lock it down before the wood has a chance to escape.
  • The Safety Net: If you canโ€™t turn the handle fast enough, snap a couple of quick clamps on either side of the joint. They will hold the frame long enough for you to seat your heavy-duty C-clamps properly.
  • Honor the Surface: Never let metal touch the frame directly. A C-clamp is a powerful tool that can easily dent the wood. Always use hardwood cutoffs as a barrier between the clamp and the frame. Even with light-duty clamps, these barriers are essential for protecting the integrity of the wood.

In the video below, you can see this “C-clamp dance” in action as we bring the ends together for the final time.

Pro-Tips for Successful Clamping – A Summary for You to Remember

Keep these clamping tips in mind:

  • Speed is Key: If using C-clamps, keep them open less than an inch so you can tighten the handle quickly before the wood shifts.
  • Use Backups: If you can’t move fast enough, use quick clamps on either side of the joint to hold the position while you set your C-clamps.
  • Always Use Barriers: Never put a C-clamp directly on the frame; it will dent the wood. Always use hardwood cutoffs as a barrier between the clamp and the drum.
  • Clamping Numbers: Use at least six clamps to secure the joint while it dries.

Barrier Dimensions: Use wood cutoffs approximately 1″ x 3″ for the inside of the frame, and 2″ x 3″ for the outside.

Whatโ€™s Next? Tomorrow, on Day 12, Iโ€™ll show you exactly how to arrange those six clamps so they donโ€™t get tangled or interfere with the curve of the frame. Itโ€™s a bit like a puzzle, but Iโ€™ll walk you through it!

Love Art by Po creates 3 grades of frame drums: Drum Circle, Instrumental and Gallery. Also, Po makes 10″ drum, DIY drum kits. Go to the Drum page to read more about the grades and how to purchase them. Here is the link.

See you tomorrow!

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

2 responses to “Drum December Day 11 – How to Clamp a Drum Frame”

  1. Drum December Day 12 – How to Make a Drum Frame Using 6 Clamps – Love Art by Po Avatar

    […] Day 11, I explained how the shape changes depending on which end overlaps on the outside. Today, we focus […]

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

Find Love Art by Po’s Portia “Po” Chapman Kingston Art studio on Google Maps at this link.

Behind the scenes, Drum December, Drum Works, How Po Makes Hand Drums, Kingston Artist, Po's Drum Making Process, Portia Chapman, Portia Po Chapman Frames and Stretchers, Portia's Adventures, Studio Process, Uncategorized

Drum December Day 10 | How to Glue Before Clamping Drum Frame

On day 10 of Drum December, Po spreads glue on the white oak before clamping the drum frame to dry. Her assistant holds the frame firmly still at the Love Art By Po Kingston Art Studio
Drum December Day 10 – Po Glues the White Drum Frame Before Clamping the Dry-Bend

Choosing the Right Glue for Handcrafted Drum Frames | Drum December Day 10

At the Love Art by Po studio in Kingston, I believe that building a professional-grade drum frame is as much about the type of glue as it is the technique used to apply it.

Different moisture levels in wood require different chemical bonds. Whether you are working with freshly steamed “green” wood or seasoned dry wood, choosing the wrong adhesive can compromise the sound of your instrument. In todayโ€™s update, Iโ€™ll explain how to pick the right glue at your local hardware store to ensure a lifetime of pure sound.


The Challenge: Gluing Damp vs. Dry Wood

The first hurdle every drum maker faces is moisture. If you are bending steamed red oak, the wood is naturally damp.

Early in my practice as an installation artist, I treated drum frames like standard carpentryโ€”LePage Pro Carpenterโ€™s Glue. However, standard wood glue and damp, steamed wood do not mix. I would return to my shop table the next morning to find the joint “slimy” and uncured on the inside.

The Polyurethane Solution

To glue damp wood effectively, you need a moisture-activated adhesive like Original Gorilla Glue. This polyurethane glue uses the moisture in the wood to “activate” the bond. It bonds damp frames like a dream, but it comes with a significant trade-off: The Foam.


The Science of Sound: Why “Foaming” Glue Causes Rattle

If you want a pure, resonance-free tone, you must understand how glue affects vibration. Polyurethane glue expands into a foam, creating tiny air pockets within the joint.

Are Drum Frames Meant to Rattle?

  • The Rattle: If you enjoy a “smooth rattle” or mechanical reverberation, foaming glue is your best friend.
  • The Pure Tone: If you want a clean strike, never use foaming glue. The drum frame produces sound just as much as the rawhide. If your glue joint contains air pockets, the vibration of the drum strike can cause a “seam rattle” deep within the wood.

How to avoid the rattle:

  1. Glue the frame only when the wood is fully dry.
  2. Use a non-foaming moisture-resistant glue like Gorilla Glue Clear. (Note: “Non-foaming” glues can be slippery, making clamping a damp frame more difficult.)

Three Steps to a Rattle-Free Steamed Frame

If you are new to drum making, remember that hitting a drum with “enthusiastic force” will eventually shake loose any weak or brittle bonds. To ensure your steamed frame remains silent and solid, follow these three steps:

  1. Cooling Time: Let the wood cool until it is no longer steaming, but is still slightly damp before applying glue.
  2. Even Spread: Use a non-foaming polyurethane glue spread evenly across the entire joint.
  3. Pressure: Use 6+ C-clamps, applied two at a time on opposite sides to ensure even compression.

Innovating with Dry Wood Bending

For my premium drums, I prefer to glue the wood when it is fully dry. This produces a beautiful, rattle-free instrument. However, dry hardwood doesn’t like to bendโ€”it behaves like a floor plank!

To solve this, I developed a proprietary dry-bending technique. The wood is pre-bent and shaped before the glue is ever applied. You can see the foundation of this technique in my previous posts: Day 5, Day 7, and Day 8.

My Go-To Choice: Titebond III

For dry, single-layer frames, I recommend Titebond III Ultimate.

  • Why? It offers a longer working time, becomes “tacky” quickly for better clamping, and is rated for both interior and exterior use.
  • The Secret: Let the wood and glue “perform their magic” for at least 24 hours before sanding or knocking the frame.

The “Drum Making Golden Rule”

Frame drums are built for lifeโ€”they go from drizzling rain at a community circle to the dry heat of a bonfire. Because they are exposed to moisture, heat, and travel, your glue must be waterproof.

The Golden Rule:

No matter the purpose of the drum, ALWAYS use a high-strength, waterproof glue that produces zero (or nearly zero) bubbles.


Coming Tomorrow: Join me for Drum December Day 11, where Iโ€™ll share a deep-dive tutorial on Professional Clamping. I’ll show you the “tricks of the trade” to ensure your frame is perfectly circular and structurally sound.


See you tomorrow!

More information about Love Art by Po Drums

๐Ÿ“ง Portia@loveartbypo.ca

2 responses to “Drum December Day 10 | How to Glue Before Clamping Drum Frame”

  1. Drum December Day 11 – How to Clamp a Drum Frame – Love Art by Po Avatar

    […] Welcome back to Drum December! Today, we are diving into one of the most transformative stages of the process: using my innovative dry-bending technique to compress and clamp the drum frame. This method is born from my preference for non-polyurethane glues, which we explored in our Day 10 tutorial. […]

Let Me Know What You Think! Start or Join the Convesation

๐Ÿ“ Visit the Studio:Find Love Art by Po on Google Maps