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Drum December Day 17 – How To Varnish a Drum Frame

Close-up of a white oak drum frame stained in Black Cherry, resting on wooden risers for the varnishing stage of Drum December Day 17 at Portia Po Chapman’s studio.
Moving from the deep stain of Day 16 to the protective glow of Day 17: Preparing to varnish the white oak drum frame.

Making the Drum Frame Shine

Varnishing is rarely a single-day task; it is a meticulous 2–3 day process that requires patience, a steady hand, and a keen ear for the wood’s texture. While the varnish gets harder the longer it dries—which is our ultimate goal for a durable instrument—this hardness can make it difficult for the next layer to bond. To ensure a professional, glass-like finish, we must navigate the delicate balance of drying times and sanding.

Choosing the Right Finish: Water-Based vs. Spar Varnish

For drums intended for rugged, outdoor drum circles, I typically use a natural spar varnish. It applies thickly and offers heavy-duty protection, though it requires significant drying time.

However, for this white oak frame, I chose a clear, non-yellowing water-based Varathane finish.

  • The Benefit: It dries much faster than oil-based alternatives.
  • The Challenge: The coats are much thinner, meaning the wood grain often “raises” after the first application.

In the video below, you can actually hear the raised grain as I sweep my hand across the dry surface. This texture must be smoothed before we can move forward.

The Secret to Sanding First Coats

Sanding the first coat of dry varnish is easier than it looks, provided you have the right technique. Because I am on a strict timeline—with the goal of stringing this drum on Day 19 (December 27, 2025)—I chose to sand after just one coat.

Pro Tip for Sanding:

  1. Wet the surface: Lubricating the varnish prevents the sandpaper from “grabbing” too aggressively.
  2. The Paper: Use 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper.
  3. The Motion: Lightly draw the paper along the surface, always following the direction of the grain.

Note: If you are using a very thin acrylic “varnish,” it is often safer to wait until the 3rd coat to sand.

Once sanded, the frame must be wiped down and dried. Always use a tack cloth as your final step to remove every microscopic speck of dust before the next coat of varnish touches the wood.

Controlling the Environment

Timing is everything. I applied the first coat roughly eight hours ago, but the humidity outside was climbing. To ensure the frame dried in time for the second coat, I moved it into my humidity-controlled drum painting studio, which I keep strictly between 45% and 50% humidity. This controlled environment is essential for a consistent cure.

Efficiency on the Turntable: The Game Changer

The way you physically handle the drum during varnishing dictates the final look. I prefer to use a lazy-susan (turntable) painting surface equipped with risen bars.

Why use a turntable?

  • Continuous Motion: It allows for long, fluid brush strokes that follow the grain without the artist having to change positions.
  • Self-Leveling: Fewer brush strokes mean the varnish has a better chance to self-level, resulting in a smoother finish.
  • Drip Management: If excess varnish begins to pool at the bottom edge, you can easily catch and wipe it with just the tips of your bristles as the frame spins.

Using a turntable was a complete game changer for my craft, and it is the secret behind the flawless finish on this white oak frame.

Come back tomorrow when we cut the rawhide and put in the water to soak.

See you on Day 18!

Read more about my art and contact information at Love Art By Po and the many drums I make.
To contact me directly, please use this email:

📧 Portia@loveartbypo.ca

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